Mallorca, Spain - Valldemossa and Soller

Hello dear readers and future travellers, welcome back to my blog. In my last post I wrote about the beautiful Mallorcan resort of Puerto Pollensa. I mentioned how I was planning a trip into the Serra de Tramuntana Mountains which run from the South-West to the North-East of the Balearic Island. I travelled by bus in October with a local-excursion company – No-Frills – and visited the historic towns of Valldemossa, Sóller and Port de Sóller. The No-Frills tour was well organised and very handy at getting from A-to-B. I’ve been with them before, but in July some years ago, so I thought I’d go on a trip down memory lane and see how the Tramuntana landscape looked in the Autumn months. I will include pictures of the Tramuntana in both seasons. For the ultimate travel experience – there’s a vintage tram ride too!

The No-Frills tour bus arrived at my hotel in Puerto Pollensa to pick me up for the day-long trip. Weather-wise, it wasn’t looking good. Grey clouds rolled in, and the air was close. As the coach pulled away, the heavens opened. Our driver drove skilfully in the torrential downpours. It then started to thunder. Lightning flashed over the dusty Es Pla of Mallorca. In late-winter to early-spring, the inland Es Pla of Mallorca blooms with the white blossom of almond trees.

Fortunately, the rest of the storm left us as we climbed the road into Valldemossa, although the rain remained. Valldemossa is a medieval town of honey-blonde limestone. It was founded by the Moors during the Islamic period of Spain’s history. Its name means ‘Valley of Musa’ after the Moorish nobleman who owned the village. From the 10^th century, the Moors introduced irrigated terracing to the Tramuntana Mountains, building beautiful groves of almonds, citrus and olive trees which cascade into the green valleys. The groves were spared when conquered by the Christian King Jaume I in 1229 and a monastery was built in 1276. This monastery was visited by the famous Polish composer, Frederic Chopin in 1838. Staying with his lover Aurore Dupin (penname George Sand) to recover from tuberculosis and wrote musical compositions here. George Sand however didn’t enjoy her stay or her interaction with the locals – writing ‘A Winter in Mallorca’ retelling her experiences. Mine was a much nicer experience. The town centre is mostly car free, preserving the heritage of the little town. Valldemossa is only 30 minutes away from Palma by car, but there are also regular buses from Palma like the 203. This public transport option is only ideal for those staying in Palma itself.

Our coach tour progressed, winding through the hairpin bends of the Serra de Tramuntana. We drove past Deia, home to the late author Robert Graves who wrote works such as ‘I Claudius’ and his memoir on the First World War, ‘Goodbye to All That’. Mallorca’s Tramuntana mountain range was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 due to its cultural significance and natural beauty. Quaint villages and characterful towns dot the landscape. This is Mallorca in its true state, with dramatic untouched scenery.

The sun emerged by the time we reached Sóller and its port. Sóller town has plenty of hotels and restaurants and is famed for its vintage tram to the Port and train to Palma city. If you’re with a tour group through the mountains, Sóller has bakeries and cafes that allow for a quick lunch. Before embarking on the tram, I also made sure to visit the station’s museum and gallery. In here are several artworks by Joan Miró and Pablo Picasso, both of whom visited Sóller. Even though the gallery was free, it was quiet, allowing time to appreciate the artwork without annoying and jostling crowds. I don’t know anywhere in Britain that houses famous artworks in a train station - although there’s an L.S. Lowry painting in a Morrisons Supermarket at Seaburn, Sunderland. ‘More reasons to shop at Morrisons’.

Soon it was time to board the tram to Port de Sóller and its beach. The tram was inaugurated in 1913, one year before the First World War in which Spain stayed neutral. It is a fantastic feat of engineering. So too is the train to Palma, which snakes through valleys and tunnels through the Tramuntana mountains back to the city. Our tram took in the delightful scenery of citrus groves and the shiny waters of Sóller’s beach, where you can reward yourself with ice-cream.

As mentioned at the beginning, there is something for everyone in Mallorca. Whether you want to chill at a resort, partake in activities or explore the landscape and history, you are spoilt for choice. Our trip through the Tramuntana mountains, stopping at historic Valldemossa and scenic Sóller, was worth it. I hope my post inspires you to explore this beautiful destination when visiting Mallorca.