The Weser River Valley and Fairytale Germany

Welcome back dear readers and future travellers to a new article on a German hidden gem. It’s a very long one too! The Weser River Valley is the focus of this article. It is a worthy travel destination because of the attractive towns dotted along this winding waterway. These are Hameln, Hoxter and Gottingen – the latter is on the River Leine, a tributary of the Weser. The Weser starts in the forested hills of Thuringia in Eastern Germany, before making its 452km journey downstream to the North Sea, past the city of Bremen. The Weser is Germany’s second longest river after the mighty yet industrial Rhine. In my opinion, the Weser and its towns encapsulate the charm of Germany and showcase its history and tranquil scenery. To top it off, the Weser gave inspiration to numerous fairytales, including those written by the Brothers Grimm. Let’s go on a journey along the Weser!

How to get here

I went on a coach trip from North East England to visit here; the name of our tour was ‘Fairytale Germany’. See if any coach holiday operators run a similar tour. If you go independently, the city of Hannover is a great base for visiting the towns of Hameln and Gottingen. Hannover has an airport and there are direct train services to the Weser’s towns from Hannover Hauptbahnhof. You can reach Hoxter from Gottingen - a change of train would be required at Kreiensen station. A car may be useful for visiting here and the little riverside villages such as Polle. The region also has the Weser Cycling Route which follows the entire course of the river and its beautiful environs.

Hameln/Hamelin

A Pied-Piper led me here. Luckily I found my way back home! Hameln (or Hamelin) is famed for the Pied-Piper fairy tale. For those who don’t know the story, a Pied-Piper helped Hameln clear its pesky rats by playing his magical musical pipe, leading them away from the medieval town. However, when the Pied-Piper wasn’t paid by the town’s residents as initially promised, he plays his magical pipe again, leading the town’s children away from the town as punishment. There are multiple endings; some end with Hameln’s children being drowned in the Weser, trapped in a cave, or being returned to their parents when the piper is rightfully paid.

German fairytales are sinister, but their historical context makes them fascinating. The Pied-Piper story may be based on true events from 1284. The town’s records from 1384 state “It is 100 years since our children left.” Hameln also has the timbered Pied-Piper house from 1602 which has inscribed on its windows; “A.D. 1284 – on the 26th of June – the day of St John and St Paul – 130 children – born in Hamelin – were led out of the town by a piper wearing multicoloured clothes. After passing the Calvary near the Koppenberg they disappeared forever.”

There are many theories and interpretations of the tale. Some believe that the Pied-Piper story is a warning against greed and ungratefulness amongst the townsfolk.  It could be a metaphor for the plague carried by fleas on rats. This may be true, but the Black Death of 1346-53 was much later than the events of 1284. Others have said that the Piper himself personified the ‘dancing plague’, a medieval phenomenon where the youth of the day danced non-stop in a wave of hysteria. Think Beatlemania in the hurdy-gurdy era.

Hameln today prides itself on this fairy-tale, popularised by the Brothers Grimm. As a travel destination, Hameln is charming and worth a visit. Christmas markets are held here, and there are plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants. Hameln and the Weser River Valley have their own ‘Weser Renaissance’ architectural style. In the 16^th century elegant townhouses were erected with gilded facades and ornate roof gables – as seen with Hameln’s Liesthaus and Hochzeitshaus next to the church.

Hoxter and Polle

Polle is apparently home to Cinderella’s castle. Whilst not a spectacular grand structure, the ruins of Polle were pleasant to walk around. It also has delightful views of the River Weser and the timbered village surrounded by towering pine forests. By the riverbank is a ferry where you can cross the Weser. The area around Polle is also good for hiking and cycling. Polle also has a local pumpkin market; Cinderella maybe perused the pumpkin market to find a carriage to go to the ball.

South of Polle is the town of Hoxter. It lies in the German state of North-Rhine Westphalia and borders the Weser from the west. Hoxter bears many similarities to Hameln, sharing the Weser Renaissance style of gilded facades and ornate roof gables. The timbered town hall and the Adam-und-Eva house are notable, eye-catching examples. The striking two-towered St Kilian’s Church was built in the 12^th century. Boat-trips sail along the winding peaceful Weser. Hoxter and the nearby forests also inspired the Grimm fairytale Hansel and Gretel; a statue honouring the story lies in the town. Hoxter’s literary importance is further reflected in the Abbey of Corvey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in 822. We didn’t have time to visit on our trip, but Corvey led to Hoxter’s growth in medieval times. It is the oldest standing medieval structure in Westphalia, and its private library is the largest in Germany. A bookworm’s paradise!

Gottingen

Gottingen is on the River Leine, a tributary of the Weser. When I visited Gottingen, it felt like a German-version of Oxford or Cambridge, its status as a university town (founded in 1734 by King George II of Hannover andGreat Britain) gave it a youthful flair. The Brothers Grimm lived and lectured here at the renowned University from 1829-37. They were expelled from the University along with five other liberal lecturers who refused to sign an oath of loyalty to the dictatorial King Ernest August of Hannover. The ‘Gottingen Seven’ case resembles the many attacks on universities by authoritarian dictators today.

The Grimms were still celebrated by the town, and in 1901, a statue celebrating their ‘Goose Girl’ story was erected in the main square. The town centre was abundant with shops; I particularly loved popping into the superb book and stationary shops.

Gottingen, when looking at the map of Germany, is practically in the centre of the country making it easily accessible for visitors. It also makes a fitting end to the Fairytale route of Germany’s Weser River Valley; home to enduring tales such as the Pied-Piper, Cinderella, Hansel and Gretel, and Gottingen’s Goose Girl.