Aix-les-Bains and Annecy, France

Hello dear readers and future travellers, welcome to my humble blog. As this is my first blog post, I thought I should start with a lovely location beginning with the letter ‘A’. I then remembered two places beginning with ‘A’: Aix-les-Bains and Annecy in France. So, you’re in for a double treat! Both are fantastic French towns connected by rail and set amidst majestic Alpine scenery.

I stayed in Aix-les-Bains for several days and ventured by train to Annecy for a daytrip in the Spring of 2023. I flew into Grenoble Airport to reach this region from Newcastle in the UK. I would return to this area of France, but not by Grenoble Airport. It was too small for the number passengers arriving and had poor facilities. It was not very clean either (other travellers contributed to this). Next time, I would fly into Lyon or Geneva in neighbouring Switzerland. Moving on from airports – Aix-les-Bains and Annecy were wonderful antidotes to this unpleasant start. I wanted to rekindle my interest in train-travel and made use of the French TER (Train Express Regionaux). It was worth it!

Aix-les-Bains

I left the airport on a coach transfer to Grenoble’s train station, where 30-40 minutes later, I picked up the TER train to Aix. If you are doing this, purchase a flexi-ticket in advance to allow for any delays – I found this very reassuring. I noticed on my journey, to my amazement, flowering almond trees. I didn’t expect to see this in the Rhone-Alpes region of France. The leaves were also returning on the bare trees which was an uplifting sight.

Aix-les-Bains is a pretty spa town located on the eastern side of the long Lac du Bourget. I travelled in mid to late March so there was still snow on the peaks surrounding Aix, but the weather had a warmth too which made for pleasant walking. Daffodils were in bloom by the choppy waters of the lake, which in warmer months is excellent for water sports.

Aix is a small town of around 30,000 people. It was founded by the Romans who were drawn to its mineral springs. A temple to the hunting goddess Diana stood where the Hotel de Ville is today. An arch from that temple remains visible across an elegant square. It was the Belle Epoque era of the late 19th century that made the town boom. Queen Victoria stayed here and there is a bust of her on Jean Moulin Square. There’s even a red telephone box, home from home. Nearby is the Parc Floral des Thermes with an open-air theatre and tall trees. Wandering around here, I saw two ears sticking up behind a wall. Upon approach, I saw well looked after donkeys, goats and a pony in a pen brought in from the surrounding fields – a delightful surprise. Nearby is the Grand Casino – an architectural reminder of the town’s 19thcentury grandeur. Walk north along the Rue de Geneve and you will reach the ‘Monument aux Morts d’Aix-les-Bains’; a striking memorial commemorating those who fell in the Second World War.

Wandering back to my hotel, I heard the quintessentially French sirens that go ‘arrr-wawa-arrr’. As a matter of fact, the police station was situated near to my hotel: Les Loges du Parc. Don’t be put off by the police station’s proximity to Les Loges du Parc. It was exceptionally clean, well equipped, secure and commodious. The staff were friendly too. Nearby is the associated but glitzier Golden Tulip Hotel which has a spa and a great restaurant. Worth a stay if you want to treat yourself.

Annecy

Annecy lies to the north of Aix-les-Bains and is easily reached by train within 30 minutes. Taking the train allows a chance to see the woods and fields adjacent to the tracks, and the experience of crossing rocky gorges and the Thiou river. The TER is different to the faster TGV or Intercités trains, which are also operated by France’s state-run SNCF. The TER serve smaller stations along the route and require no advance seat reservations. After purchasing my ticket in Aix’s station (an easier process than in Britain), I was on my way to Annecy.

Annecy is bigger than Aix with 125,000 inhabitants and hosts a university plus an annual animated film festival. Annecy is stunning. The Thiou river and three canals intersect through the medieval and Renaissance old town which feeds into Annecy’s eponymous lake. The main photo opportunities are the Palais de l’Ile and the Jardins l’Europe which offer splendid views of the lake and mountains. The Pont des Amours is also a highlight as it looks both down a tree-lined lake and the crystal-clear waters of Lake Annecy.

Luckily for me, it was a beautiful sunny day when I visited. I just sat on a bench and admired the views with my own eyes. It was a pleasant change from the grey gloom of British city life, and the dreariness of our usual wet weather too. Pure bliss. Serenity. After lunch in the town centre, where there are lots of eateries and bistros, it was time to return to Aix by train to my hotel. I left Annecy with unforgettable memories of this quaint and scenic town.

I hope you enjoyed reading my first-ever blog post. Stay tuned for more. In the meantime, wherever you are, happy travelling!