Grenoble and Vizille, France

Hello dear readers and future travellers, welcome back to my blog. My first post was about the French towns of Aix-les-Bains and Annecy which I visited in March 2023. This post is the second part of that trip, in which I stayed in the city of Grenoble for several days before flying back home. As stated previously, Grenoble Airport was dire and chaotic. Nevertheless, my stay in Grenoble city itself was much better. Steeped in history, Grenoble is France’s tenth largest city and is close to Lyon. Located in the Isere department, Grenoble is often overlooked by the coachloads of skiers in wintertime. In my opinion, it is worthy of a visit, and its compact size (plus efficient public transport) makes it perfect for exploring.

After departing Aix-les-Bains, I returned to Grenoble by the TER train arriving at the main station. Alighting from the train, I noticed the imposing Massif Chartreuse. This limestone mountain chain is a regional natural park and lies north of Grenoble. It also gives its name to the famous liqueur made by monks of the Carthusian order in the 15th century.

The Isere River runs through Grenoble city and the base of the Chartreuse Mountains. Here you will see Grenoble’s famous attraction, the Bastille cable car. Dubbed Les Bulles (The Bubbles) these cable cars carry visitors up to the city’s own Bastille which overlooks the city, offering spectacular views. Due to its height and south-facing position, the Bastille and southern slopes of the Chartreuse feature Mediterranean flora. When I visited in March, it was very warm and sunny, adding to this Mediterranean feel.

Grenoble’s city centre includes a pedestrianised quarter featuring Medieval to Renaissance buildings such as the city’s own Notre-Dame Cathedral and Palais du Parlement du Dauphiné. There are plenty of shops and eateries in this area of the city. I made the most of the sunny weather by wandering around the Parc Paul Mistral and the peaceful Jardin des Plantes. The former features the Tour Perret, a tall tower built in 1925 during an international exhibition held in the city. A large stadium was built for the 1968 Winter Olympics; these games were also the first to adopt a mascot - Shuss. Nearby is the Musée de la Résistance et de la Déportation. The museum focussed on both WWII and the Holocaust’s impact on the city during the occupation, and the vital role of the Resistance. The collections were well presented, and the museum’s small size made it manageable. It was a moving experience overall. Close to this museum is the Place du Verdun. In this elegant square are numerous neoclassical buildings with plenty of tricolor flags, hanging from the former library and the Isere Department’s Prefecture.

For a daytrip, I would recommend travelling out of the city to the Domaine de Vizille, a beautiful chateau nestled in the foothills of the Dauphiné Alps. It is easy to get to Vizille; take the C13 or T90 bus from either the Train Station or near to the Alsace-Lorraine tram-stop. After a 30-minute journey south you will arrive in Vizille. The Chateau has extensive grounds with a rose garden and a long lake with swans and wandering geese. Beyond the lake is also long tree-lined passage where, if you stand still, you might spot a kingfisher. I saw an electric flash of blue by the brook and just as I was about to take a picture, it flew off again. It was as fast as Roadrunner (*meep meep)!

Grenoble and Vizille have connections to the French Revolution. In 1788, the 'Day of Tiles' riots broke out in Grenoble against the monarchy, a year before the Storming of the Bastille. The Assembly of Vizille was held in July 1788 to discuss forming the 'Estates General' as a means to oppose the absolutist monarchy. Grenoble and Vizille are also part of the Route-Napoleon, named after the French leader who, after escaping the Italian island of Elba, marched through here to regain power before his final defeat at Waterloo in 1815. Because of these connections, the Chateau de Vizille houses an interesting museum dedicated to the French Revolution, the only one of its kind in the world. Over the years, I’ve been to other French chateaus such as crowded Versailles. However, Vizille was much more relaxing for a day out and just as interesting.    

I left Grenoble and the surrounding region having made fantastic memories. Grenoble, I believe, is a hidden gem amongst the other busy cities of France, yet with a majestic mountainous backdrop. I was glad to have ventured out of the city to discover the fascinating history of Vizille. I would return to this area of France again.