The Isle of Wight and the New Forest National Park

Travel Troves
Jul 19
5 min read

Hello again dear readers and future travellers. Have you survived the heatwave(s)? It was a scorcher wasn’t it. Global warming isn’t helping. In these times, we humans will have to adapt to the heating world by travelling more sustainably, out of season for cooler temps, or locally. If you’re a Brit who fancies a summer seaside holiday, well fear not, as we have a lengthy coastline to cool off and explore. In 2023, I visited the Isle of Wight – England’s largest island. Located next to the county of Hampshire in South East England, the Isle of Wight made for a perfect UK holiday. It was like a tropical island for someone from the grey cold North East. Kings and Queens have stayed here. Home to pretty villages, dramatic chalk cliffs, sailing and the famous annual music festival, there is something for everyone on the Isle of Wight.

You don’t have to fly here either. If you are visiting from abroad, Bournemouth and London’s Gatwick and Heathrow are your nearest airports. However, you can simply grab your car keys and catch a ferry. RedFunnel operate a crossing from Southampton to Cowes, while WightLink operate crossings from Portsmouth to Fishbourne/Ryde, and Lymington to Yarmouth. You can also board a ferry as a foot passenger; the Portsmouth to Ryde crossing is ideal for rail travellers as a ferry terminal is located inside Portsmouth Harbour train station. We decided to drive down south and combine the Isle of Wight with the New Forest National Park. I shall recount our journey and stay, as well as the Isle of Wight’s top attractions.

The New Forest National Park

Wanting to avoid the congestion of the M25 around London – we took our car through Oxfordshire, joining the A34, skirting past Newbury and the Cathedral City of Winchester. A brief stint on the M3 and M27 motorway took us towards the New Forest and on our way to Lymington for the WightLink Ferry.

A canopy of green hues greeted us as we left the motorways. The New Forest had a magical, Tolkien-esque atmosphere. We drove past gnarled ancient trees, bushy heathland and of course the famous New Forest ponies. There are around 5,000 such ponies to be found in the Forest. Other species include squirrels, woodpeckers, owls, even cicadas. Keep your eyes peeled for deer too. Spanning some 220sq miles, and with plenty of walking and cycling trails, the New Forest was made a National Park in 2005. Despite its name, the New Forest is much older. Ancient woodland was seized by the second Norman King, William II in 1079, becoming his royal hunting forest: Nova Foresta. It was here that William II met a sticky end when he was shot with an arrow during a hunting ‘accident’ in 1100. His brother Henry I became King. Look out for the ‘Rufus Stone’ near Minstead which marks the spot where William fell.

Leaving Norman history behind, our drive led us to Lymington Pier where we boarded for our ferry crossing to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight. During the 40-minute crossing, we could also see from afar the stunning ‘Needles’ chalk cliffs and rock formations. These are at the western tip of the island.

The Isle of Wight's Top Attractions

Having reached the Isle of Wight, we stayed in a nice apartment in the village of Luccombe, near the town of Shanklin. It had a lovely outdoor pool which made for a perfect dip on warm sunny days. Here are a few of my favourite visits around the Isle of Wight.

Osborne House

The Island’s ‘Jewel in the Crown’, Osborne House was Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s private residence from 1845 until her death in 1901. It is now managed by English Heritage (entry required, but members go free). On clear days, you can see as far as Portsmouth from Osborne. Victoria used Osborne for royal functions too, making this place the centre of the British Empire while she resided here. You can see the Empire’s influences with Osborne’s Durbar Room, designed like an exquisite Indian Palace with peacock motifs. Osborne’s imperial imagery continues with the opulent Grand Staircase which has the large 1847 fresco by William Dyce: ‘Neptune Resigning the Empire of the Seas to Britannia’.

Osborne was also modelled on Italian Palazzos, with elegant towers, fountains, statues and terraced gardens. The roses were blooming as well, their fragrance filling the air. Something else was filling the air too when I visited. I decided to take the valley walk down to Osborne’s private beach. Yes, Queen Victoria had her own beach! As I got closer to the beach overlooking the Solent, a swarm of black flies emerged and were sticking to everyone. Awful things. Perhaps they had emerged because it was warm and slightly damp. I trekked back uphill to escape the swarm, shaking them off. ‘One was not amused’.

My irritation was soon replaced by satisfaction, visiting the beautiful walled garden and woodlands. This was my favourite part of Osborne as it was relaxing, full of lovely flowers and various trees. The walled garden contained roses, bushy lavender and striking iron pergolas. Osborne’s woodlands offer shade during warm sunny days, ideal for a rest. Some of the trees were planted by the royal family themselves in the 19^th century and are now as tall as the House itself.

Carisbrooke Castle

Also managed by English Heritage, Carisbrook Castle is worth a visit and offers great inland views of the Isle of Wight. Built in 1100, it is a classic motte-and-bailey Norman castle (much like York’s Clifford’s Tower). During the 1590s, under Elizabeth I’s reign, Carisbrooke was refortified to counter threats from Spain and France – reminding me of Jersey’s Orgueil Castle.

Carisbrooke’s most famous resident was King Charles I, imprisoned here in 1647-48 after losing the English Civil War to the Parliamentarian ‘Roundheads’. He was subsequently beheaded in London.

Royal history aside, I also came here to see the castle’s lovely donkeys. Animals always cheer me up. The four-legged workers hee-hawed and helped to turn the Castle’s donkey powered water wheel, lifting water from the 49 metre well. You can experience the donkeys in action during a demonstration at Carisbrooke’s well-house.

As I was leaving, walking from the gatehouse, a Red Legged Partridge flew onto the stony wall to sing, its noisy call echoing throughout the castle.

The Isle of Wight Donkey Sanctuary

If you can’t get enough of donkeys, then the Isle of Wight is for you! A short drive from Carisbrooke Castle is the Isle of Wight Donkey Sanctuary. What’s better is that there are hundreds of them. Many were sadly neglected and mistreated in various countries, so it is heartening to see that the donkeys now have a safe and loving home. The sanctuary has its own café and gift shop for those seeking refreshments or a donkey themed souvenir.

Ventnor and Shanklin beaches

Ventnor is on the south side of the island and is very hilly. A longish walk is needed to reach the seafront. However, you are rewarded by lovely sea views, ice cream parlours, chippies and warm winds. Indeed, Ventnor claims to be the sunniest place in the UK. There’s some truth to it – tropical plants seem to flourish here and there’s a botanical garden up the road too which has an impressive collection of tropical plants.

Shanklin has a more ‘kiss-me-quick’, ‘bucket-and-spade’ vibe to it. However, the walk down to the seafront from Luccombe village was pleasant, especially with views of the cliffs and the Shanklin Chine (wooded valley). Look out for the charming, thatched pub on the beach too.

For me, the Isle of Wight is an underrated destination in the UK. Its proximity near the New Forest National Park is an added bonus too. Packed with history, stunning seascapes and good weather (most of the time) it makes for a lovely airport-free break in the British Isles.