Malaga, the Caminito del Rey and Nerja - An Andalusian Adventure

Hola again dear readers and future travellers. Welcome back to my second and last post on my Andalusian Adventure. This time I am covering the coastal city of Malaga, the gateway to the Costa del Sol. Malaga is the second largest city in the Andalusian region of Spain by population – when ranked nationally it is the sixth.

I returned to Malaga from Seville travelling on Renfe’s Media Distanica train. This was so I could catch my return flight back home to Newcastle, UK, a few days later. With time to spend, I opted to stay in Malaga city.

Whilst on the Media Distancia train from Seville to Malaga, I passed by the famous Caminito del Rey walking route at El Chorro. I’ve walked the Caminito del Rey before in 2019 so I have included scenic photos from then. The Caminito del Rey is roughly one hour by train from Malaga Maria Zambrano station if you want to do it independently. It was rather nice to whizz past the whole walking route on a train this time!

Malaga

Located on the Mediterranean Sea and backed by undulating mountains and hills, Malaga is an overlooked hidden gem in Spain. Most will travel to its airport, then onwards to the various holiday resorts for sun, sea and sangria – or egg and chips for some. Malaga on first appearances looks to be a concrete jungle of 1960s apartment blocks. I must admit my heart sank on seeing the urban sprawl. However, with travel, never let first impressions of a place be your last. Seek surprises. Malaga became a pleasant surprise. The city contains a charming and elegant centre with a modernised marina, putting an end to my doubtful criticisms. Malaga also has a cathedral, Roman amphitheatre, castles, shopping boulevards and beaches galore. These are all within walking distance. Even in and around the suburbs, there are superb restaurants and attractions.

Puerto and La Malagueta

After a day of train travel and a much-needed night’s sleep, I set out to explore Malaga the next day. The sea was calling to me (not literally of course!). I ventured from the Guadalmedina area to the Puerto and La Malagueta areas of the city. This was where it all began some 2,800 years ago when the city was founded by the Phoenician civilisation in 770BC. The Phoenicians were a seafaring civilisation from Lebanon who dominated the Mediterranean Sea. Carthage in modern-day Tunisia became their capital. During the Punic Wars, the Roman Empire seized control of Malaga in 218BC. The Romans left their mark on Malaga as seen with the nearby amphitheatre. With such a rich ancient history, Malaga is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe – predating Rome’s own founding date of 753BC.

Malaga’s Port is a more modern place nowadays. The Palmeral de las Sorpresas is an attractive walkway with a striking modernist pergola. Across the road is the attractive Parque de Malaga, opened in 1897 for the benefit of the city’s residents. It almost felt like a botanical garden with lush plants, palm trees and numerous fountains. Close at hand is the new Pompidou Art Gallery which opened in 2015. A striking yet charming Multicoloured Cube makes up this offshoot of the famous modern art gallery in Paris. It reminded me of a Rubik’s Cube and Elmer the Elephant. The Pompidou decided to base a new gallery here in honour of Pablo Picasso who was born in Malaga in 1881.

Wandering on, I reached La Malagueta Beach, one of the closest from the city centre. Whilst breezy when I visited, it was pleasant to walk by the bright blue Mediterranean. I circled around the port’s lighthouse and pricy restaurants back to the city centre.

Centro Historico

Like Seville, Malaga is abundant with history. Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines and Arabs all ruled Malaga. The Crowns of Castile and Aragon took Malaga from the Muslim Emirate of Granada in 1487 in a bloody siege, the city becoming a part of Christian Spain. In 1528, Malaga’s Cathedral was built in the Renaissance style of architecture, although it wouldn’t be completed until 1782. This length of time is probably going to be the case with the UK’s HS2 project. Malaga prospered during the 19^th century Industrial Revolution thanks to its port. The Centro Historico contains many Parisian-like boulevards from this period housing numerous boutiques and shops.

For spectacular views of the city and sea, visit the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro Castles. The former dates from the 11^th century. At the foot of the Alcazaba lies the Roman Amphitheatre, which was unearthed by archaeologists in 1951. For art lovers, there is the Picasso Museum and Carmen Thyssen Museum which houses works by Andalusian artists.

Soho District

Not to be confused with London’s, Malaga’s Soho is just outside the Centro Historico. My hotel, the Guadalmedina, was located near here. It’s very urban and edgy with its concrete apartment blocks and large graffiti wall art. However, Soho has its charms and many nice restaurants. I tried the vegan Mimo restaurant and had a delicious veggie burger. Soho also has numerous options for tapas and ice cream – I’d recommend the Levi Angelo ice cream parlour especially! For shopping, there’s the nearby El Corte Ingles, a department chain usually found in most large Spanish cities. It’s a bit like a Spanish John Lewis or Fenwick’s.

The Caminito del Rey, El Chorro

While not in Malaga city itself, the Caminito del Rey at El Chorro is reachable by train from Malaga Maria Zambrano or by car if you happen to hire one yourself. It is one of the most famous walks in Spain, possibly the world, taking in dramatic river valleys and gaping gorges. The 7.7km linear walk begins at Ardales, a shuttle bus runs to-and-from El Chorro station. The walk takes roughly 3-4 hours to complete and is best done in the cooler months. While possible to walk solo, I would walk with a guided group, taking in the scenery and the history of this route. Water, snacks and good walking shoes are needed for this walk.

The Caminito del Rey was finished in 1921 following construction of the Guadalhorce Dam. The construction workers traversed the narrow cliffside paths, with walkways over 100 metres high. In one of my pictures, you can see the dangerous old path under the new, safer walkways. The Caminito del Rey route was opened by King Alfonso XIII, becoming the ‘King’s Little Walk’.

Vultures circled over us high in the sky. I felt like I was in the Wild West of the United States. Yeehaw! Walkers are ultimately rewarded with a majestic yet dizzying view from the stone bridge over the river gorge, linking walkers back to El Chorro.

If you fancy a less intensive outing from Malaga, there’s the beautiful Concepcion Botanical Garden founded in 1855. This too is reachable by public transport and by car.

Nerja

Nerja is a charming coastal town popular for package holidaymakers. I stayed here in 2019 with Tui and have been before when I was younger. Whilst I didn’t go again in 2026, Nerja is worth a mention in this post as it is situated in the Malaga province. It’s a good place to stay for families and for those who want a more sedate resort on the Costa del Sol. Plus, you can always visit Malaga City or the Caminito del Rey if you hire a car or go on an excursion. Nerja itself has pleasant sandy, shingly beaches and a large fascinating cave complex out of town: Cuevas de Nerja. For spectacular views of the sea, head to the Balcon de Europa where there is a statue of King Alfonso XII.

Flying home

The next day, I said adios to Andalusia and flew back home to Newcastle. I saw Seville for the first time and was amazed by its history and vibrant atmosphere. I discovered a pleasant, elegant side to Malaga that I did not expect and admired the coast, looking to Nerja. I revisited the Caminito del Rey once again, this time whizzing past its gorges and cliffs by train, resting my legs. My plane took off and soon I was above the plains of Spain and the Picos de Europa in the North of the country – resting my legs once again!